Wednesday, May 25, 2005
Truly Canadian
There really isn't a hell of a lot to Huacachina. The "town" consists of a lake (or maybe better described as a pond) that takes maybe 10 minutes to walk around and about 2 rows worth of buildings surrounding it. There's not much to do there other than chill out by the pool in your hostel/hotel, or go dune buggying and sand boarding.
Proudest moment: being the only person who could consistently board down the sand dunes (on a 1 inch think piece of "shaped" wood) standing up. Hells ya.
Proudest moment: being the only person who could consistently board down the sand dunes (on a 1 inch think piece of "shaped" wood) standing up. Hells ya.
Sunday, May 22, 2005
A Cut Above
Obviously, even when you're in a less developed country, not everyone around you is poor and our last night in Aerequipa probably provides the best example of the upper class.
It was Saturday and I wanted a night out. Following the recommendation of one of the hosts working at our hostel, Tambo Viejo, we headed downtown to the plaza to a place called Daddyo's. The line-up there was HUGE - longer than what you might see outside The Blarney Stone in Vancouver - absolutely ridiculous. So following another lead, we walked a few blocks to what turned out to be a truly upscale club called The Forum. Inside the club looked like a tropical paradise complete with multiple bars, palm trees, bamboo walkways, and a lagoon (and a giant bed). And drink prices were nearly the same as those you would find here in Canada. The bartender had an excellent command of English and so did the group of locals we hung out with that evening. They were all in university pursuing degrees in either business administration, accounting or engineering, and nearly all of them had spent a significant time abroad in the US or Europe travelling and/or studying English. It was also obvious from the way they carried themselves they were from a different class.
I wanted to ask them how they viewed the "common class" in their city and wondered how they thought they were viewed by other people in their society. They were obviously much wealthier and far more educated than the majority of people there, and I wanted to know what it meant to them to be a cut above. In the end I didn't ask because it just would have been too inappropriate... but at least we got a couple of free drinks :D
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It was Saturday and I wanted a night out. Following the recommendation of one of the hosts working at our hostel, Tambo Viejo, we headed downtown to the plaza to a place called Daddyo's. The line-up there was HUGE - longer than what you might see outside The Blarney Stone in Vancouver - absolutely ridiculous. So following another lead, we walked a few blocks to what turned out to be a truly upscale club called The Forum. Inside the club looked like a tropical paradise complete with multiple bars, palm trees, bamboo walkways, and a lagoon (and a giant bed). And drink prices were nearly the same as those you would find here in Canada. The bartender had an excellent command of English and so did the group of locals we hung out with that evening. They were all in university pursuing degrees in either business administration, accounting or engineering, and nearly all of them had spent a significant time abroad in the US or Europe travelling and/or studying English. It was also obvious from the way they carried themselves they were from a different class.
I wanted to ask them how they viewed the "common class" in their city and wondered how they thought they were viewed by other people in their society. They were obviously much wealthier and far more educated than the majority of people there, and I wanted to know what it meant to them to be a cut above. In the end I didn't ask because it just would have been too inappropriate... but at least we got a couple of free drinks :D
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Saturday, May 21, 2005
The Anti-Atkins Fat Camp
Despite having just finished a bloody long 18 hour bus & taxi travel journey from San Pedro to Aeriquipa, we got on yet another 6 hour bus the next morning. This bus was part one of a 3 day, 2 night tour and trek of the Colca Canyon - a place famous for the revered Peruvian condor.
We, our guide and group of 8, arrived in Cabanaconda at about noon and piled into a small gringo stricken restaurant for lunch. That afternoon, the first part to the trek, was practically straight down. The path was hot with the sun and the dry earth made for a slippery and dusty trek - my least favourite part of the three days. But at least at the bottom of the canyon we were able to enjoy a few hot springs! As true Canadian girls, Robin and I washed our hair in the river at the bottom of the canyon (We had originally intended to take a shower at the hostel that morning before setting out, but there was no hot water. Ironically, the water in the river was probably colder than the cold shower we would have taken at the hostel).
On day two, after an extended morning of hiking along a "Peruvian flat" trail, we came upon a lush green oasis. There, we were greeted by bamboo bungalows and a series of small swimming pools that offered a much appreciated escape from the heat of the sun.
Before I go on here, I should describe the series of meals we had...
breakfast - pancakes and bread
lunch - soup and mashed potatoes (from a powdered mix) with a dab of spaghetti sauce
dinner - soup and spaguetti (with a two-inch piece of tuna fish I found in on my plate which I shared with Robin)
Can you say "anti-Atkins"??? Might I add that each day we were doing quite a bit of hiking and trekking so overall we weren't treating our bodies very well.
On the last day, wake-up call was at 2:30am and our 1100m ascent began at 2:50am. No breakfast. The moon at this point had also set behind the cliff so there was no light except for headlamps we brought (I had to borrow one from the guide because I left my flashlight back at the hostel). Despite not being able to see, I was glad of the dark as we set out on this last part of the trek. It would have been almost unbearably hot had we had to hike up the steep cliff face with the sun out, and in the dark I couldn't tell how high we had go - ignorance is bliss. But honestly, it was a hard hike up and we were given no food. Not even bread! I don't think my body was particularly happy with me that morning...
About 4/5ths of the way up we were finally able to stop for about 20 min to buy and enjoy some chocolate, bread and coca tea being sold by two ladies waiting quietly for trekkers to arrive. They must make a killing because everyone stopped there for a break.
Finally at the top, we made our way into town and ate breakfast before cramming ourselves onto the bus that would take us to the nearby national park. There, we waited for the condors, giant birds with wingspans of up to 2m. Don't let one of these birds scare you into falling off the mountain...........
We, our guide and group of 8, arrived in Cabanaconda at about noon and piled into a small gringo stricken restaurant for lunch. That afternoon, the first part to the trek, was practically straight down. The path was hot with the sun and the dry earth made for a slippery and dusty trek - my least favourite part of the three days. But at least at the bottom of the canyon we were able to enjoy a few hot springs! As true Canadian girls, Robin and I washed our hair in the river at the bottom of the canyon (We had originally intended to take a shower at the hostel that morning before setting out, but there was no hot water. Ironically, the water in the river was probably colder than the cold shower we would have taken at the hostel).
On day two, after an extended morning of hiking along a "Peruvian flat" trail, we came upon a lush green oasis. There, we were greeted by bamboo bungalows and a series of small swimming pools that offered a much appreciated escape from the heat of the sun.
Before I go on here, I should describe the series of meals we had...
breakfast - pancakes and bread
lunch - soup and mashed potatoes (from a powdered mix) with a dab of spaghetti sauce
dinner - soup and spaguetti (with a two-inch piece of tuna fish I found in on my plate which I shared with Robin)
Can you say "anti-Atkins"??? Might I add that each day we were doing quite a bit of hiking and trekking so overall we weren't treating our bodies very well.
On the last day, wake-up call was at 2:30am and our 1100m ascent began at 2:50am. No breakfast. The moon at this point had also set behind the cliff so there was no light except for headlamps we brought (I had to borrow one from the guide because I left my flashlight back at the hostel). Despite not being able to see, I was glad of the dark as we set out on this last part of the trek. It would have been almost unbearably hot had we had to hike up the steep cliff face with the sun out, and in the dark I couldn't tell how high we had go - ignorance is bliss. But honestly, it was a hard hike up and we were given no food. Not even bread! I don't think my body was particularly happy with me that morning...
About 4/5ths of the way up we were finally able to stop for about 20 min to buy and enjoy some chocolate, bread and coca tea being sold by two ladies waiting quietly for trekkers to arrive. They must make a killing because everyone stopped there for a break.
Finally at the top, we made our way into town and ate breakfast before cramming ourselves onto the bus that would take us to the nearby national park. There, we waited for the condors, giant birds with wingspans of up to 2m. Don't let one of these birds scare you into falling off the mountain...........
Wednesday, May 18, 2005
travel day
San Pedro de Atacama to Arica: 11 hours by bus, $9800 pesos
Arica to Tacna: 1 hour by taxi, $2000 pesos
Getting grounded and booking next bus in Tacna bus terminal: 30 min
Tacna to Aeriquipa: 6 hours by bus, 18 soles
Finally getting to stand up and walk around as I pleased: Priceless
Arica to Tacna: 1 hour by taxi, $2000 pesos
Getting grounded and booking next bus in Tacna bus terminal: 30 min
Tacna to Aeriquipa: 6 hours by bus, 18 soles
Finally getting to stand up and walk around as I pleased: Priceless
Tuesday, May 17, 2005
San Pedro de Atacama
- The first thing we noticed when we crossed into Chile was the paved highway with guard railings, painted lines, et al. What a refresher!
- We spent about a day and a half in San Pedro de Atacama mostly just relaxing. A lot of the time we bumpted into and hung out with 2 American med students that kept us well entertained.
- After 3 days of "fine" cuisine served by the tour, we treated ourselves to a really nice dinner, complete with some excellent Chilean merlot.
- The restaurant had an open pit fire right at the centre - a nice touch
- We toured San Pedro's version of "Death Valley" on horseback. There is nothing quite like galloping across untouched sand dunes. (Things to note when riding a horse: A horse is NOT a car. It will not necessarily go exactly where YOU want to go. A horse can also get tired.)
- It felt like forever when we had 2 errands to run and 7 hours to kill before our bus ride out.
Monday, May 16, 2005
Salar de Uyuni
We were FREEZING when we got to Uyuni. I couldn't feel my toes - a good reminder that it's winter in the southern hemisphere. Desperate for some warmth, we sat in the sun along with some Brits and waited for the Colque Tour office to open.
That morning, we embarked on a 3 day tour of Bolivia's salt flats and multi-coloured lagoons. Our driver, Juan, really should have been named "Speedy Gonzales". Throughout the entire tour he HAD to be the first to arrive, wherever the destination was suppose to be. On the second morning, he was going so fast he screwed up the axle of the Land Cruiser (this tour was done pretty much completely off-road), and we had to stop a couple times so he could fix it. This was the first time I had seen someone take a sledge-hammer to a car for fixing purposes. Nonetheless, it worked! And although we had to stop, he managed to still catch up and pass the other cars in the tour convoy.
Anyways, the salt flats were amazing. All you could see for miles around was a plane of salt and mountains dotting the distance, and everyone once in awhile you would come across an "island" oasis covered in giant cacti. I'll post pictures when I get home - it's hard to describe what this all looked like.Something I definitely did not expect to see on this South American trip was flamingos. And yet we saw flocks of them... at well over 4000m. Amidst the mountains in Bolivia, there are lagoons of varying colours and many of them are home to flamingos. I don't know about you, but usually I think of some place hot, like Florida, when I think of flamingos. Not mountain ranges 4km above sea level of a land-locked country with temperatures that drop to -20C in the winter!
Highest altitude I have been at: 4850m (air is thin at this altitude, do not attempt to do any running)
Note1: always bring a deck of cards when travelling
Note2: there is no such thing as a set of international rules for the game of "ShitHead"
Friday, May 13, 2005
Rude Awakening
The bus ride from La Paz to Oruro was great. We arrived on time, it was smooth and the scenery was spectacular.
The bus ride from Oruro to Uyuni, on the otherhand, left much to be desired for. It was crowded, it was dark and it stank of diesel. This was to be a 7 hour bus ride through the night that stretched into 10 hours. Water froze on the INSIDE of the window panes and the bus stopped nearly every 10-15 minutes to make repairs.
At one point, we woke up to locals on the bus yelling and whistling for the driver to stop. "Do you smell burning?" we overheard the travellers next to us comment. The tires were indeed burning and it took the driver a good 10minutes before he decided to stop and take a look.
The best/worst part (depending on how you look at it) was the road itself - or rather, lack thereof. About 2 hours after the bus departure, the bus began to rattle furiously. The chairs we were sitting in *almost* felt like massage chairs - except they weren't. It was absolutely nuts.
I'm surprised we were able to sleep at all that night!
The bus ride from Oruro to Uyuni, on the otherhand, left much to be desired for. It was crowded, it was dark and it stank of diesel. This was to be a 7 hour bus ride through the night that stretched into 10 hours. Water froze on the INSIDE of the window panes and the bus stopped nearly every 10-15 minutes to make repairs.
At one point, we woke up to locals on the bus yelling and whistling for the driver to stop. "Do you smell burning?" we overheard the travellers next to us comment. The tires were indeed burning and it took the driver a good 10minutes before he decided to stop and take a look.
The best/worst part (depending on how you look at it) was the road itself - or rather, lack thereof. About 2 hours after the bus departure, the bus began to rattle furiously. The chairs we were sitting in *almost* felt like massage chairs - except they weren't. It was absolutely nuts.
I'm surprised we were able to sleep at all that night!
Wednesday, May 11, 2005
Hostal Naira (La Paz)
...or rather "Hotel" Naira.
We had been roughing it for awhile so it was a true treat to stay at a nice place for a change. It really makes you realize how much you take for granted at home and really helps you appreciate the littel things - like toilet paper and a toilet seat! They even came in and made our beds midday. Ahhhh... it was great.
The toilet seat was even padded.
Just a few blocks up the street from the hostel is the infamous "Witches Market". Lots of odd charms and things you can buy to offer to good ol' Pachamama (i.e. Mother Earth). Every store had it's own collection of dried llama fetuses. What were they for? Good luck for the house they assured us. And what about the dried armadillo and the dried cats? - Same thing. For how much? - Oh about $2.
We had been roughing it for awhile so it was a true treat to stay at a nice place for a change. It really makes you realize how much you take for granted at home and really helps you appreciate the littel things - like toilet paper and a toilet seat! They even came in and made our beds midday. Ahhhh... it was great.
The toilet seat was even padded.
Just a few blocks up the street from the hostel is the infamous "Witches Market". Lots of odd charms and things you can buy to offer to good ol' Pachamama (i.e. Mother Earth). Every store had it's own collection of dried llama fetuses. What were they for? Good luck for the house they assured us. And what about the dried armadillo and the dried cats? - Same thing. For how much? - Oh about $2.
Tuesday, May 10, 2005
from Cuzco to La Paz
Soooooooooo...
After a final great night in Cuzco, we took a bus to a little town called Puno, located on the shores of Lago Titikaka. The lake - beautiful. The town - pretty blah. We didn´t do much in Puno other than sleep.
From Puno, we took a 1.5 day tour of some trippy floating reed islands and checked out the islands of Atmantani and Tequile. Would you actually believe people LIVE on these floating reed islands? They harvest the reeds growing around them and lay them down layer by layer every few months, making what looks and feels like a giant mattress. The houses and boats are made of the same material making these habitats completely organic - it´s nuts! However, this population of reed dwellers is dwindling fast so there probably won´t be too many ´natural´ habitats in the future other than those made purely for tourists.
On Atmantani Island, we had the opportunity to stay with a family in their home. It was an incredibly rustic scene - each family had a plot of land where they grew their crops of potatoes (3-5 different kinds), maize, tomatoes and quinoa. Each had a small heard of sheep, the token noisy donkey, a cat or two, chickens, and a few guinea pigs running around in a hut seperate from the house that was used as the kitchen. When we got to the island, our host, Delia, a 19 year old girl, met us at the dock and brought us into her house. Robin and I wanted to get to know the family and their way of life, so in out badly spoken Spanish we offered to help cook lunch. The only problem was... we sucked at peeling potatoes. Delia would peel/pare 3 or 4 potatoes in the same amount of time it took us to do one (mind you we were trying to do this with really small potatoes and blunt knives). Lunch was served in our room, but because we wanted to get to know the family we asked if we could have dinner all together. So... we had dinner together, except that meant Robin and I were at a small table facing the wall while the family ate behind us on the floor beside the bed. I guess they don´t get many requests like that! After dinner, we opted to relax in our room only to find that 10min later, Delia and her mom came into the room with armloads of clothing. They made us stand up and dressed us in a matter seconds with the islanders traditional clothing. Phew! They cinch those belts tight! When we got to the main plaza, we found that all tourists had been dressed in traditional clothing and were hopelessly trying to follow the dance. There is a lot of twirling and spinning, and a LOT of running around in a deformed circle at deliriously high speeds. I´m surprised no one got flung against the wall!
Having had enough of Peru for a little while, we spent yesterday on the other side of Lago Titikaka in the small town of Copacabaña, Bolivia. If anyone is looking for a cheap hippie hideaway, this is the place to be. The place is small, beautiful, and very very relaxed. There are no taxi´s honking at you and no locals hollering at you at every turn trying to make you buy their goods. And the word ¨cheap¨ doesn´t quite describe this place completely. $1US = 8Bs (Bs is Bolivianos). We had really nice clean room with a private bathroom for 40Bs, and a huge dinner (complete with salad, soup, entree and dessert) for 30Bs. You could stow away in Copacabaña for ages. The only crappy thing there was that last night Robin got food poisoning there. It was a looooong and not so memorable night. I had a hell of a time trying to use the public phones trying to make a collect call to our health insurance companies, but luckily it all worked out in the end. She´s doing a lot better now and we´ve been able to track down some antibiotics and ginger to settle her stomach. So for today and tomorrow, we´re splurging a little bit in La Paz, staying at a hotel rather than a hostel. Things are looking up! We´ve met some great and really helpful people along the way, but more on that later...
All´s good =)
After a final great night in Cuzco, we took a bus to a little town called Puno, located on the shores of Lago Titikaka. The lake - beautiful. The town - pretty blah. We didn´t do much in Puno other than sleep.
From Puno, we took a 1.5 day tour of some trippy floating reed islands and checked out the islands of Atmantani and Tequile. Would you actually believe people LIVE on these floating reed islands? They harvest the reeds growing around them and lay them down layer by layer every few months, making what looks and feels like a giant mattress. The houses and boats are made of the same material making these habitats completely organic - it´s nuts! However, this population of reed dwellers is dwindling fast so there probably won´t be too many ´natural´ habitats in the future other than those made purely for tourists.
On Atmantani Island, we had the opportunity to stay with a family in their home. It was an incredibly rustic scene - each family had a plot of land where they grew their crops of potatoes (3-5 different kinds), maize, tomatoes and quinoa. Each had a small heard of sheep, the token noisy donkey, a cat or two, chickens, and a few guinea pigs running around in a hut seperate from the house that was used as the kitchen. When we got to the island, our host, Delia, a 19 year old girl, met us at the dock and brought us into her house. Robin and I wanted to get to know the family and their way of life, so in out badly spoken Spanish we offered to help cook lunch. The only problem was... we sucked at peeling potatoes. Delia would peel/pare 3 or 4 potatoes in the same amount of time it took us to do one (mind you we were trying to do this with really small potatoes and blunt knives). Lunch was served in our room, but because we wanted to get to know the family we asked if we could have dinner all together. So... we had dinner together, except that meant Robin and I were at a small table facing the wall while the family ate behind us on the floor beside the bed. I guess they don´t get many requests like that! After dinner, we opted to relax in our room only to find that 10min later, Delia and her mom came into the room with armloads of clothing. They made us stand up and dressed us in a matter seconds with the islanders traditional clothing. Phew! They cinch those belts tight! When we got to the main plaza, we found that all tourists had been dressed in traditional clothing and were hopelessly trying to follow the dance. There is a lot of twirling and spinning, and a LOT of running around in a deformed circle at deliriously high speeds. I´m surprised no one got flung against the wall!
Having had enough of Peru for a little while, we spent yesterday on the other side of Lago Titikaka in the small town of Copacabaña, Bolivia. If anyone is looking for a cheap hippie hideaway, this is the place to be. The place is small, beautiful, and very very relaxed. There are no taxi´s honking at you and no locals hollering at you at every turn trying to make you buy their goods. And the word ¨cheap¨ doesn´t quite describe this place completely. $1US = 8Bs (Bs is Bolivianos). We had really nice clean room with a private bathroom for 40Bs, and a huge dinner (complete with salad, soup, entree and dessert) for 30Bs. You could stow away in Copacabaña for ages. The only crappy thing there was that last night Robin got food poisoning there. It was a looooong and not so memorable night. I had a hell of a time trying to use the public phones trying to make a collect call to our health insurance companies, but luckily it all worked out in the end. She´s doing a lot better now and we´ve been able to track down some antibiotics and ginger to settle her stomach. So for today and tomorrow, we´re splurging a little bit in La Paz, staying at a hotel rather than a hostel. Things are looking up! We´ve met some great and really helpful people along the way, but more on that later...
All´s good =)
Friday, May 06, 2005
at 10
When I was 10, I would have been in Grade 4. I went to school Monday to Friday, and was forced to take Chinese lessons every Saturday. During the week I practiced piano and had piano lessons Sunday. That year my parents took my brother and I to Hawaii and Hong Kong.
In Cuzco we have encountered 10 year olds, in fact kids from age 5-12, running up to every tourist they see and offering to either shine their shoes, or to sell postcards or finger puppets. Some of them do not appear to go to school. They have learned to pull the saddest face possible to make you, the tourist, feel badly for them. The services they offer will help supplement their familys income. The likelihood they will travel beyond anywhere in South America in slim to none.
In Cuzco we have encountered 10 year olds, in fact kids from age 5-12, running up to every tourist they see and offering to either shine their shoes, or to sell postcards or finger puppets. Some of them do not appear to go to school. They have learned to pull the saddest face possible to make you, the tourist, feel badly for them. The services they offer will help supplement their familys income. The likelihood they will travel beyond anywhere in South America in slim to none.
English, French, Cantonese, Spanish
Some have been inclined to call Robin and I social ringers. That may be true.
Yesterday was our last in Cuzco. We had a relaxing morning, spending most of it in an internet cafe and then splurging on a lovely lunch at a crepe restaurant near the Plaza de Armas. Something you need to know about Cuzco is that it is very much a tourist centered city. Nearly EVERYONE we have met from that area is or is studying tourism (typically a 4-5 year program at the local university) so that they can become a guide, work in the hotels, or be a server at a popular restuarant. So every one in awhile, Robin and I get approached by students who want to practice their English. This typically means spending a good half hour or so chatting in the main square about schtuff and then being offered to be taken out somewhere. The crepe restaurant was no exception. We ended up getting a quick Spanish lesson and giving a quick English lesson to our server, and made plans to meet up in the evening to check out the local night scene.
During the afternoon, we hopped on a City Tour of Cuzco and got driven around in a bus to places we could have probably simply walked to or taken a quick taxi. But at least the tour included a guide that explained what was going on...in English. The tour was alright, but after the hike to Machu Picchu, the city sites seemed a little mundane particularly because the explanations were all about the same. We really wanted to try cuy (guinea pig) in Cuzco but heard the plate was pretty big and was good for sharing. So we made some quick plans for dinner and ended up inviting 2 French guys who were staying at the same hostel we were, and a bunch of people from the tour including 2 guys from Hong Kong, 2 Dutch girls and an electrical engineer from Kentucky. The 2 Dutch girls never ended up coming, but even without them we had quite the international crew and carried conversations in French, English and Cantonese, whilst putting our heads together to work out whatever Spanish was needed to order dinner. We ended up not having cuy yesterday evening, but tried some alpaca instead. I quite liked it, though Robin claims it tasted a bit like liver.
Afterwards we met up with Danny, our server from lunch, and a friend of his and headed towards a line of bars nearby. As we walked there, we were literally surrounded by people trying to give us little flyers and tickets for free drinks to the various bars. You might think this is great, but it was actually quite frightening. They were all really aggressive and the swarm took us by complete surprise from behind - it was nuts!! Anyways, the rest of the night was less scary and we had a really good time doing a little bar-hopping. The mix in music was great! The DJs make mixes that flawlessly go from trance to hip-hop to good old 80s classics.
I do not think they measure their alcohol when they pour drinks...
.
Yesterday was our last in Cuzco. We had a relaxing morning, spending most of it in an internet cafe and then splurging on a lovely lunch at a crepe restaurant near the Plaza de Armas. Something you need to know about Cuzco is that it is very much a tourist centered city. Nearly EVERYONE we have met from that area is or is studying tourism (typically a 4-5 year program at the local university) so that they can become a guide, work in the hotels, or be a server at a popular restuarant. So every one in awhile, Robin and I get approached by students who want to practice their English. This typically means spending a good half hour or so chatting in the main square about schtuff and then being offered to be taken out somewhere. The crepe restaurant was no exception. We ended up getting a quick Spanish lesson and giving a quick English lesson to our server, and made plans to meet up in the evening to check out the local night scene.
During the afternoon, we hopped on a City Tour of Cuzco and got driven around in a bus to places we could have probably simply walked to or taken a quick taxi. But at least the tour included a guide that explained what was going on...in English. The tour was alright, but after the hike to Machu Picchu, the city sites seemed a little mundane particularly because the explanations were all about the same. We really wanted to try cuy (guinea pig) in Cuzco but heard the plate was pretty big and was good for sharing. So we made some quick plans for dinner and ended up inviting 2 French guys who were staying at the same hostel we were, and a bunch of people from the tour including 2 guys from Hong Kong, 2 Dutch girls and an electrical engineer from Kentucky. The 2 Dutch girls never ended up coming, but even without them we had quite the international crew and carried conversations in French, English and Cantonese, whilst putting our heads together to work out whatever Spanish was needed to order dinner. We ended up not having cuy yesterday evening, but tried some alpaca instead. I quite liked it, though Robin claims it tasted a bit like liver.
Afterwards we met up with Danny, our server from lunch, and a friend of his and headed towards a line of bars nearby. As we walked there, we were literally surrounded by people trying to give us little flyers and tickets for free drinks to the various bars. You might think this is great, but it was actually quite frightening. They were all really aggressive and the swarm took us by complete surprise from behind - it was nuts!! Anyways, the rest of the night was less scary and we had a really good time doing a little bar-hopping. The mix in music was great! The DJs make mixes that flawlessly go from trance to hip-hop to good old 80s classics.
I do not think they measure their alcohol when they pour drinks...
.
Thursday, May 05, 2005
I am
Where are you from? - Japan? Korea? China?...
Canada? Really? But you are Asian!
I do not believe you.
Canada? Really? But you are Asian!
I do not believe you.
Wednesday, May 04, 2005
The Happy Bus on the Inca Trail...
What you Need:
1 pair of good hiking boots
1 walking stick
1 tour guide and assistant guide (Freddy and Omar)
16 porters
11 gourmet meals
1 bottle of sunscreen
4 Brits, 2 Aussies, 2 Germans, 2 Canadians and 1 American
4 days of fabulous weather
1 Inca Trail
a generous helping of YeeHaw
Day 1:
Wake up at 5:15am, get ready, and meet with your group in front of the SAS office at 6am. Pile into a bus and enjoy your first real dose of Freddy-ism. Stop a half hour later to enjoy breakfast over-looking Ollantaytambo. Stare wide-eyed at the 3 year old boy short-changing himself by trying to sell you walking sticks for 1 soles each. Buy walking sticks for their actual price, 3-5 soles.
Get back on the bus, stop at the town below to buy a rain poncho you will not use, coca leaves to chew and a water bottle sling, and continue on your way to the final stop, Km 82.
Slather on sunscreen and bug repellent before beginning your trek on the Inca Trail and receieve the first stamp in your passport Freddy was raving about. Start walking at a steady pace alon ght etrail and get to know the people you will be spening the next 4 days with. Feel good about doing the 4-day hike ahead of you and allow your jaw to drop when you see the porters running past you carrying 20-30+ kg of cargo on their back wearing mere sandals on their feet.
Get caught up in the energy and enthusiasm Freddy has for being an Inca Trail tour guide.
Enjoy the excellent company of your companions during your fabulous meals of lunch and dinner. Attempt to understand the idea of having "tea time", complete with two giant piles of popcorn and plates of snacks, immediately prior to dinner. Listen to the passion with which Freddy speaks of the Incas and Peru, and his views on the corrupt government and the impact of tourism on the local economy - he obviously cares much for his country and cultural background.
Be convinced the next day will be brutal (that way it´s not so bad when you actually begin your trek).
Day 2:
"Vamos a la playa!" - Begin to understand decipher what Freddy is actually saying. Laugh at his bad jokes and sarcastic humour. Realize that Freddy time is very ... flexible.
On the trail take it slow and steady, especially right after Elevensies. The stairs up to the top of Dead Woman´s Pass is a steep one. Chew a wad of coca leaves and take frequent breaks ...to, uh, admire the view of the valley of course. Once at the top, cheer, clap and jump for joy because you´ve made it! Allow ample time to savour the breath taking view.
Arrive at camp by 2pm, eat lunch and siesta. This nap will prove to be important as you might find it difficult to sleep later on. Braving the cold showers is optional.
Enjoy a lovely dinner served by the "so amazing people" (i.e. the porters) and end the meal with a warm cup of well-deserved mulled wine. Play a get-to-know-you game such as Two Truths and a Lie. Follow this with drinking games like "The Happy Bus on the Inca Trail..." and "YeeHaw!". Do not forget to keep the neighbours awake - they will thank you in the morning.
Before you head to bed, take a moment to admire the clear sky and the multitude of stars. Soak in the sight of the MilkyWay and make a wish on a shooting star. Once in your tent, wrap yourself in as many warm layers as possible because you will be in for a cold night. Sleep may only be an option for the lucky.
Day 3:
Eat a good breakfast - today will be a long day. You will find that you warm up quickly once you set off on your trek and forget how miserably cold you were the night before.
On your trek, stop at Inca ruins you see along the way. You will get a thorough explanation of Inca history and the different purposes of each building from Freddy. You may find yourself amazed by the accomplishments of the Incas. Try to sit in the shade and do not forget to re-apply sunscreen or you may regret it later.
At the last Inca ruin stop, you will be offered a choice of going straight to the campsite, or taking an extra long route that will allow you to see Machu Picchu from a far away perspective. Choose option 2. Once you have chosen option 2, be prepared for a fast paced hike along the narrow, original Inca trail. Walk fast - Freddy may not wait for you. Once you finally reach the top of the mountain, you will get your first glimpse of the acclaimed Machu Picchu... and will finally be able to catch your breath. Take lots of pictures and overload Freddy with as many cameras as possible. When you notice that there is only a limited amount of sunlight remaining, book it to the camp site. Follow your trusty guide and practically run down the mountain along a dried stream bed. Avoid the prickly cacti. Be careful not to twist your ankle by making good use of your walking stick as you plunge through the jungle at break neck speeds. Freddy may decide that you still aren´t going fast enough and will suggest a short cut that leads vertically down the mountain. Your childhood dreams of being Indiana Jones will be fulfilled here.
You will be relieved once you reach the campsite and be excited about the available hot showers. However, no matter how bad you smell, it is OK if you decide to forego the shower because the line-up is miles long. Dinner is served inside the lodge. You may be tempted to laugh at the bad music videos playing overhead. Beers and cheers all around for a good day and sore muscles.
Say farewell and thank your porters for all their hard work and the phenomenal job they´ve done.
Drink to YeeHaw!.
Day 4:
Awake at the un-godly hour of 4:00am so that you are packed up and ready to leave. Be super enthusiastic as you set out on your trek to the final destination, Machu Picchu, but stop 50m later and queue to enter the final stretch.
Once through the gate, you may feel as if you are racing 400 other people to get to Machu Picchu first. You will be passing groups of tourists while other groups of tourists pass you. Stop at the Sun Gate to watch the sun rise over the mountains and strike the Incan city. Stop again at the terraces just outside Machu Picchu and revel in the site. If a marriage proposal should take place, congratulate the happy couple and let the mountain know with a loud "YeeHaw!".
Within the city of Machu Picchu, Freddy will guide you through and explain the different sites. Themes of the condor, puma and snake will appear and reappear throughout your tour. The Incas revered the sun and earth, and they followed the three fundamental rules of love, and work. Each time you sit down to listen to Freddy´s stories you may find it difficult to get up and move again. You may find that you have also developed a fear of stairs.
Be adventurous and climb the mountain overlooking the city. It will be a hard-core 45min hike up, but the view will be worth it. Do not forget bug spray.
Your muscles at this point may be beyond tired. Take the bus, rather than hike, to Agua Calientes and regroup for a final lunch and good bye. Look around the table and enjoy the company of the people you have gotten to know and care for. Together you have accomplished and shared something amazing that will be unforgetable. It will be these who make your 4 days and 3 nights an unbelieveable and wonderful experience.
.
1 pair of good hiking boots
1 walking stick
1 tour guide and assistant guide (Freddy and Omar)
16 porters
11 gourmet meals
1 bottle of sunscreen
4 Brits, 2 Aussies, 2 Germans, 2 Canadians and 1 American
4 days of fabulous weather
1 Inca Trail
a generous helping of YeeHaw
Day 1:
Wake up at 5:15am, get ready, and meet with your group in front of the SAS office at 6am. Pile into a bus and enjoy your first real dose of Freddy-ism. Stop a half hour later to enjoy breakfast over-looking Ollantaytambo. Stare wide-eyed at the 3 year old boy short-changing himself by trying to sell you walking sticks for 1 soles each. Buy walking sticks for their actual price, 3-5 soles.
Get back on the bus, stop at the town below to buy a rain poncho you will not use, coca leaves to chew and a water bottle sling, and continue on your way to the final stop, Km 82.
Slather on sunscreen and bug repellent before beginning your trek on the Inca Trail and receieve the first stamp in your passport Freddy was raving about. Start walking at a steady pace alon ght etrail and get to know the people you will be spening the next 4 days with. Feel good about doing the 4-day hike ahead of you and allow your jaw to drop when you see the porters running past you carrying 20-30+ kg of cargo on their back wearing mere sandals on their feet.
Get caught up in the energy and enthusiasm Freddy has for being an Inca Trail tour guide.
Enjoy the excellent company of your companions during your fabulous meals of lunch and dinner. Attempt to understand the idea of having "tea time", complete with two giant piles of popcorn and plates of snacks, immediately prior to dinner. Listen to the passion with which Freddy speaks of the Incas and Peru, and his views on the corrupt government and the impact of tourism on the local economy - he obviously cares much for his country and cultural background.
Be convinced the next day will be brutal (that way it´s not so bad when you actually begin your trek).
Day 2:
"Vamos a la playa!" - Begin to understand decipher what Freddy is actually saying. Laugh at his bad jokes and sarcastic humour. Realize that Freddy time is very ... flexible.
On the trail take it slow and steady, especially right after Elevensies. The stairs up to the top of Dead Woman´s Pass is a steep one. Chew a wad of coca leaves and take frequent breaks ...to, uh, admire the view of the valley of course. Once at the top, cheer, clap and jump for joy because you´ve made it! Allow ample time to savour the breath taking view.
Arrive at camp by 2pm, eat lunch and siesta. This nap will prove to be important as you might find it difficult to sleep later on. Braving the cold showers is optional.
Enjoy a lovely dinner served by the "so amazing people" (i.e. the porters) and end the meal with a warm cup of well-deserved mulled wine. Play a get-to-know-you game such as Two Truths and a Lie. Follow this with drinking games like "The Happy Bus on the Inca Trail..." and "YeeHaw!". Do not forget to keep the neighbours awake - they will thank you in the morning.
Before you head to bed, take a moment to admire the clear sky and the multitude of stars. Soak in the sight of the MilkyWay and make a wish on a shooting star. Once in your tent, wrap yourself in as many warm layers as possible because you will be in for a cold night. Sleep may only be an option for the lucky.
Day 3:
Eat a good breakfast - today will be a long day. You will find that you warm up quickly once you set off on your trek and forget how miserably cold you were the night before.
On your trek, stop at Inca ruins you see along the way. You will get a thorough explanation of Inca history and the different purposes of each building from Freddy. You may find yourself amazed by the accomplishments of the Incas. Try to sit in the shade and do not forget to re-apply sunscreen or you may regret it later.
At the last Inca ruin stop, you will be offered a choice of going straight to the campsite, or taking an extra long route that will allow you to see Machu Picchu from a far away perspective. Choose option 2. Once you have chosen option 2, be prepared for a fast paced hike along the narrow, original Inca trail. Walk fast - Freddy may not wait for you. Once you finally reach the top of the mountain, you will get your first glimpse of the acclaimed Machu Picchu... and will finally be able to catch your breath. Take lots of pictures and overload Freddy with as many cameras as possible. When you notice that there is only a limited amount of sunlight remaining, book it to the camp site. Follow your trusty guide and practically run down the mountain along a dried stream bed. Avoid the prickly cacti. Be careful not to twist your ankle by making good use of your walking stick as you plunge through the jungle at break neck speeds. Freddy may decide that you still aren´t going fast enough and will suggest a short cut that leads vertically down the mountain. Your childhood dreams of being Indiana Jones will be fulfilled here.
You will be relieved once you reach the campsite and be excited about the available hot showers. However, no matter how bad you smell, it is OK if you decide to forego the shower because the line-up is miles long. Dinner is served inside the lodge. You may be tempted to laugh at the bad music videos playing overhead. Beers and cheers all around for a good day and sore muscles.
Say farewell and thank your porters for all their hard work and the phenomenal job they´ve done.
Drink to YeeHaw!.
Day 4:
Awake at the un-godly hour of 4:00am so that you are packed up and ready to leave. Be super enthusiastic as you set out on your trek to the final destination, Machu Picchu, but stop 50m later and queue to enter the final stretch.
Once through the gate, you may feel as if you are racing 400 other people to get to Machu Picchu first. You will be passing groups of tourists while other groups of tourists pass you. Stop at the Sun Gate to watch the sun rise over the mountains and strike the Incan city. Stop again at the terraces just outside Machu Picchu and revel in the site. If a marriage proposal should take place, congratulate the happy couple and let the mountain know with a loud "YeeHaw!".
Within the city of Machu Picchu, Freddy will guide you through and explain the different sites. Themes of the condor, puma and snake will appear and reappear throughout your tour. The Incas revered the sun and earth, and they followed the three fundamental rules of love,
Be adventurous and climb the mountain overlooking the city. It will be a hard-core 45min hike up, but the view will be worth it. Do not forget bug spray.
Your muscles at this point may be beyond tired. Take the bus, rather than hike, to Agua Calientes and regroup for a final lunch and good bye. Look around the table and enjoy the company of the people you have gotten to know and care for. Together you have accomplished and shared something amazing that will be unforgetable. It will be these who make your 4 days and 3 nights an unbelieveable and wonderful experience.
.
